Life in Goa

The Spirit of Goa

Every country has its own national brand of hooch. The Scots of course, make the world’s best Scotch whisky. The brewing is a ritual handed down by tradition. It normally starts with a family that would have had a secret recipe and imparts that signature bouquet to its brand of hooch. Let’s face it, when it comes down to basics, it’s all local hooch with brilliant marketing packed in unique bottles! Liqueurs too have their legends and recipes. Frangalico goes down like silk and if the information on the pack is to be believed, it is an ancient recipe handed down by friars. The recipe is of course a closely guarded secret. The French have their wines and champagnes. The Japanese have their sake. The Mexicans have their Tequila. And coming closer to home, the Goans have their Feni!

Now the brewing of feni has its own legendary recipes and its own rituals.
There is coconut Feni, Caju Feni and Urak. Once you have tasted Goa’s “holy” water,
you are hooked to its unique taste and aroma. To many Goans, Feni epitomizes
all that Goa stands for. Which is not entirely true, of course - Goa has a lot more than Feni
to offer. Curious about Feni’s legendary powers, I decided to talk to some of the
older residents and stir up the truth.

I approached a fisherman off Baga beach. He was leaning against a tree
(obviously coconut) with a beatific smile like he had known the meaning of life all along.
Next to him sat a young boy with a runny nose. From time to time he would make the run disappear!
“Do you drink Feni?” I asked the older man in what I thought was Konkani.
He looked a bit confused and asked in chaste English, “Is my Feni mad?”
I switched to English. We connected
“Ah yes, everyday” he replied his eyes out of focus.
“ I believe feni can be used as a medicine?”
“Of course” he agreed. That’s why I have Feni everyday.
I settled down in the sand next to him and leapt up instantly.
I had just got comfortable in fresh cow dung!
“What about its ability to cure illness?”
“It is true,” he said solemnly “I know an AIDS patient who was cured with Feni.”
“What else can it cure?” I asked curiously. He thought for a while and said
“tooth ache, stomach ache, cataract, back ache…”
“Hold on, how is that possible?” I asked intelligently.
“Very simple” he replied. “You see, when you rub feni on to your back
the pure alcohol opens the pores and heats up the affected area causing blood
to rush to the spot and effect healing.”
“And cataract?” I asked hoping to stump him with this one.
He gave me a patronizing look and said, “for cataract you have to sniff only
the fumes of Feni, it opens up the sinus cavities freeing the mucous and congestion
which slowly over the months will dissolve the cataract.”
I had no argument against this analysis. “So where can I buy the best Feni” I asked.
“There is no ‘best’ feni” he said looking like a philosopher. “Feni-cure comes from faith,
you got to believe.” I swear I could hear a choir of angels hum beethoven's fifth.....

Saying this he handed me a quarter bottle of transparent liquid like he was giving out holy water. I thanked him and returned home. That night I had a slight headache
so I decided to try out this remedy. I poured out a shot of the Feni and downed it in one gulp.

Nothing happened. So I downed the second shot. Gradually my head felt lighter,
my headache floated away and my body went to places I could not have gone as a mortal.

Then suddenly I woke up and it was the next morning and I had a smile I' m not famous for!
From now on I carry a vial of feni in my shirt pocket. You never know when it can come handy!


Cedric Serpes drinks now purely for medical reasons. And he admits, it has never been more fun getting ill!